Must-Try: junky movie snacks get an elegant upgrade at Richmond Station

No one has more fun in the kitchen thanFarzam Fallah,the wildly inventive pastry chef at the Financial District hangoutRichmond Station.To wit: the cryptically named Movie Snacks dessert, which turns out to be a quenelle of crunchy, buttery popcorn-rippled ice cream surrounded by weightless Coca Cola meringue, sticky almond brittle, fudgy chocolate cake and a tart cranberry-Pernod purée that tastes uncannily of Twizzlers. Like all Fallah’s plates, it comes arranged like an artful crime scene, splayed with pools, smears and crumbles that blend into a superfecta of salty, sweet, spicy and tangy. The dish is a refined riff on those nostalgic, junky flavours—yet somehow cheaper than a Cineplex Combo. $9.

Richmond Station,1 Richmond St. W., 647-748-1444